From aa6ade8c1bc51bc8f379442bb00710438d1385fd Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: "Adam T. Carpenter" <atc@53hor.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2020 08:53:22 -0500
Subject: organized posts, added profile, started makefile

---
 ...-07-how-to-start-and-drive-a-hudson-hornet.html | 328 ---------------------
 wheels/2019-07-04-yabs-yet-another-bad-shop.html   | 241 ---------------
 wheels/2019-08-30-keep-right-except-to-pass.html   | 114 -------
 3 files changed, 683 deletions(-)
 delete mode 100644 wheels/2019-06-07-how-to-start-and-drive-a-hudson-hornet.html
 delete mode 100644 wheels/2019-07-04-yabs-yet-another-bad-shop.html
 delete mode 100644 wheels/2019-08-30-keep-right-except-to-pass.html

(limited to 'wheels')

diff --git a/wheels/2019-06-07-how-to-start-and-drive-a-hudson-hornet.html b/wheels/2019-06-07-how-to-start-and-drive-a-hudson-hornet.html
deleted file mode 100644
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--- a/wheels/2019-06-07-how-to-start-and-drive-a-hudson-hornet.html
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-<!DOCTYPE html>
-<html>
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-    <title>53hornet ➙ How to Start and Drive a Hudson Hornet</title>
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-    </nav>
-
-    <article>
-      <h1>How to Start and Drive a Hudson Hornet</h1>
-
-      <p class="description">
-        My understanding is there are a lot of people out there for whom driving
-        a car from the mid-20th century is an oddity, a curiosity, or a life
-        experience they can't relate to. This is for the non-experts, and
-        non-Hudsonites to get an idea of what it's like.
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        There are some significant differences between driving the Hornet and
-        most other cars you come across today. Some of them are just because
-        there are sixty-six years between the Hudson and the 2019 model year.
-        Others are Hudson-specific. Many people who I've talked to have said
-        that they would feel intimidated driving my car (whether that's because
-        of its perceived complexity or obvious value to me). So, for those who
-        just want to know how it's done: here is how you start and drive a
-        Hudson Hornet.
-      </p>
-
-      <h2>The Gauge Cluster, Switches, and Controls</h2>
-
-      <p>
-        Open the door, slide onto the bench seat, and sit behind the [massive]
-        steering wheel. For those who haven't experienced it before, it feels
-        like you have a whole lot of room at your disposal, almost like there
-        <em>should</em> be more matter occupying the space around you. In front
-        of you is probably the shiniest dashboard you've ever seen. It's simple,
-        and probably slightly familiar.
-      </p>
-      <p>From left to right above the steering wheel you have:</p>
-      <ul>
-        <li>
-          A speedometer that tops out at 120 mph (with 99K odometer inside)
-        </li>
-        <li>
-          Fuel and coolant temperature gauges (and two dummy lights; more on
-          those later)
-        </li>
-        <li>A clock</li>
-        <li>An AM radio</li>
-        <li>A glove compartment</li>
-      </ul>
-
-      <p>From left to right under the steering wheel you have:</p>
-      <ul>
-        <li>A 2-speed wiper control knob</li>
-        <li>A weather control (heater) temperature slider</li>
-        <li>A 2-speed weather control fan knob</li>
-        <li>The ignition barrel</li>
-        <li>A headlight switch</li>
-        <li>
-          A cigarette-lighter (the owner's manual calls it a cigar lighter!)
-        </li>
-      </ul>
-
-      <p>
-        Also, underneath the dashboard on the left there is a parking brake
-        handle and hood latch release and on the right there is an arm which
-        raises and lowers the fresh air cowl vent. Think of it as "recirculate"
-        in more modern vehicles. If you're looking for the turn signal lever
-        it's the tiny stick to the left of the steering wheel. The indicator is
-        the little yellow light on the far left of the dash. There's only one so
-        it flashes when you're signalling left or right. We also added our own
-        air conditioning system, something Hudsons never came with from the
-        factory.
-      </p>
-
-      <h2>Dual-Range Hydramatic</h2>
-
-      <p>
-        The first thing that might confuse some folks when they first see the
-        car running is the shift lever. Many Hornets came with three-speed
-        manual transmissions that were shifted from the column (overdrive was an
-        option). However, lots of owners paid extra for the optional "Dual-range
-        Hydramatic", a fully automatic transmission from General Motors. Truly,
-        this car has a 4-speed automatic that requires no manual shifting during
-        normal use, making it that much easier to take a boatload of people to
-        get milkshakes.
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        Behind the steering wheel is a shift indicator that deviates from the
-        "PRNDL" pattern most folks are familiar with. From left to right (shift
-        arm fully at the top to arm fully towards the bottom), the 'gears' are:
-      </p>
-      <ul>
-        <li>N (Neutral)</li>
-        <li>4-Dr (Drive, all four speeds)</li>
-        <li>3-Dr (Drive, three speeds only)</li>
-        <li>Lo (Low gear)</li>
-        <li>R (Reverse)</li>
-      </ul>
-
-      <p>
-        Neutral isn't just a mid-way point between reverse and drive in this
-        car. It's a necessity. With automatic Hornets (and Hydramatics in
-        general), neutral is used to start the car. There is an electric lockout
-        preventing the car from being started in any gear but neutral, so you do
-        have to put the car in neutral before you turn the key (if you're on a
-        hill put your foot on the brake or engage the parking brake).
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        Drive is split into 4-Dr and 3-Dr, which basically decides whether the
-        transmission utilizes high gear. In the owner's manual, Hudson
-        recommends using 3-Dr for driving around town (as the low RPMs delivered
-        by high gear means unnecessary shifting in and out of 4th gear) and 4-Dr
-        for highway driving. It really depends on what speed you're going to be
-        driving at but there isn't anything wrong with driving around in 4 all
-        the time. I typically leave it in 4th at sustained speeds above 45MPH.
-        You can switch between these gears any time while moving.
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        Low gear basically locks the transmission in 2nd gear so you don't spin
-        the wheels. The owner's manual says this is for pulling out of sand or
-        dirt if you get stuck.
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        Reverse works just about how you might expect but with an added catch:
-        if the engine is off it acts as park. That's right. When you turn the
-        car off you can put it in reverse and the transmission will engage a
-        lock pin to prevent the car from rolling. You can't start the car in
-        this gear because of the lockout however so you have to shift into
-        neutral to start the car. So for starting, put it in neutral, for
-        stopping, put it in reverse.
-      </p>
-
-      <h2>Choke and Gas</h2>
-
-      <p>
-        For cold starts, our Hornet (and I believe this was common for other
-        Hudsons of the time) is equipped with an automatic 2-stage choke. Push
-        the pedal all the way to the floor once to set the choke. After the car
-        has started and has warmed up, kick the gas quickly to the floor and
-        release to cancel the choke.
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        For warm starts the engine doesn't need the choke but likes to be given
-        just a little bit of gas while cranking.
-      </p>
-
-      <h2>The Keys, Ignition, and Warning Lights</h2>
-
-      <p>
-        Hudsons like mine come with two keys. The octagonal one is for starting
-        the car, it's used in the ignition. The round one is used for the door
-        and trunk locks (and I believe in my case the glove box). My
-        understanding is this is actually reversed from the majority of Hudsons
-        and is due to a locksmith error at one point or another.
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        The ignition switch sits so that the teeth of the key enter vertically.
-        Turning the key left powers accessories like the radio. Turning the key
-        right once switches the car to "ON" which will allow the engine to be
-        started and remain running.
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        Here's where some things may vary depending on the year of the car. For
-        '51 Hornets, there's a separate starter button located all the way on
-        the left control pod. For these cars, you put the key in and turn it to
-        "ON", and then press and hold the button until the car has started up.
-        For '52 Hornets onwards, the ignition switch also activates the starter
-        if you turn the key past "ON" (like in most modern vehicles).
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        If you turn the key to "ON" you'll see two red warning lights appear on
-        the dash next to the indicators marked "AMP" and "OIL". These are
-        [alternator] charging status and oil pressure status lights. Our car is
-        equipped with a 12-V alternator system so the AMP light really comes on
-        if there is low voltage while the oil pressure light comes on when
-        there's low oil pressure. These lights will only appear with engine off,
-        key "ON" or if something has gone very wrong.
-      </p>
-
-      <h2>Starting and Driving</h2>
-
-      <p>
-        So now that I've gone over the basics of all the components, here is the
-        normal starting procedure. It actually varies depending on whether the
-        engine has been warmed up. That's life with carburetors.
-      </p>
-
-      <h3>From cold:</h3>
-
-      <ul>
-        <li>
-          Put your foot on the brake, and shift the lever into neutral. Just
-          push it vertically, pulling towards you slightly if you need to.
-        </li>
-        <li>
-          Push the gas pedal all the way to the floor once and let your foot
-          back up again to set the choke.
-        </li>
-        <li>
-          Put the key in the ignition and start the car (the "AMP" and "OIL"
-          lights should switch off.
-        </li>
-        <li>
-          Wait for the engine to smooth out so you know that it's warm enough to
-          cancel the choke, and kick the gas pedal once to cancel it. (If the
-          RPMs are still higher than idle then it's not quite at operating
-          temperature yet)
-        </li>
-        <li>
-          Pull the shifter down into 4-Dr or 3-Dr (or R), and release the
-          parking brake by twisting the handle towards the steering wheel
-        </li>
-        <li>Let off the brake and you're off!</li>
-      </ul>
-
-      <h3>From warm:</h3>
-
-      <ul>
-        <li>Put your foot on the brake and shift into neutral.</li>
-        <li>
-          While giving just a little bit of gas, start the car. Both warning
-          lights should disappear. When the engine fires up you can let off the
-          gas and let it idle.
-        </li>
-        <li>
-          Pull the shifter into 4-Dr or 3-Dr (or R), and release the parking
-          brake by twisting the handle towards the steering wheel.
-        </li>
-        <li>Done.</li>
-      </ul>
-
-      <h2>Stopping and Parking</h2>
-
-      <ul>
-        <li>
-          Hold your foot on the brake and twist the parking brake handle towards
-          the door of the car, and pull it towards you
-        </li>
-        <li>
-          When you're ready to shut off the engine, you can shift it into either
-          neutral or reverse and turn the key off. Shift it into reverse if you
-          haven't already to lock the transmission.
-        </li>
-      </ul>
-
-      <p>
-        Note: I usually engage the parking brake AND put the car in reverse,
-        just to be safe. If you had to pick one however I would use the
-        transmission in case you're on a steep hill and your brakes fail for
-        whatever reason.
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        And there you have it! Not much is different from most cars around today
-        but there are one or two quirks (more about old cars than about Hudsons
-        in particular). The only major thing to keep track of while driving is
-        that you have no power steering, so get ready to anticipate turns sooner
-        and use more of the wheel with every turn.
-      </p>
-    </article>
-  </body>
-</html>
diff --git a/wheels/2019-07-04-yabs-yet-another-bad-shop.html b/wheels/2019-07-04-yabs-yet-another-bad-shop.html
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--- a/wheels/2019-07-04-yabs-yet-another-bad-shop.html
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-<!DOCTYPE html>
-<html>
-  <head>
-    <link rel="stylesheet" href="/includes/stylesheet.css" />
-    <meta charset="utf-8" />
-    <meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1" />
-    <meta
-      property="og:description"
-      content="The World Wide Web pages of Adam Carpenter"
-    />
-    <meta property="og:image" content="/includes/images/logo_diag.png" />
-    <meta property="og:site_name" content="53hor.net" />
-    <meta property="og:title" content="YABS: Yet Another Bad Shop" />
-    <meta property="og:type" content="website" />
-    <meta property="og:url" content="https://www.53hor.net" />
-    <title>53hornet ➙ YABS: Yet Another Bad Shop</title>
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-      </ul>
-    </nav>
-
-    <article>
-      <h1>YABS: Yet Another Bad Shop</h1>
-      <p>
-        Today I received a text message from a local mechanic/auto shop asking
-        me to leave them a Google review. It was an automated message from a
-        shop that I know well and have used many times in the past.
-        Unfortunately, I have had several poor experiences (at the time they
-        seemed horrific) with them in the past year and I can honestly say
-        they'll never receive my business again. Now I could have used this as
-        an opportunity to leave them an anonymous nasty-gram but instead I'm
-        going to do the opposite. I'm going to write about everything I don't
-        like about them without telling you who they are or hiding who I am. Why
-        would I do that? Well for one, they were an excellent shop for many
-        years. I believe a recent change in management is to blame and I'm not
-        going to ruin their chances of making a comeback (because frankly I
-        would like for them to rebound). And secondly, I don't believe in
-        hiding. This page and its author are public knowledge. Now, in no
-        particular order: a sample of awful work from yet another bad shop.
-      </p>
-
-      <h2>Mom's Truck -- Balls Out</h2>
-
-      <p>
-        Mom's truck is a 2007 Chrysler Aspen that she loves very much. Dad does
-        a whole lot of work on it himself (the both of us do pretty much
-        everything we can in-house so long as we have the right equipment).
-        We've been taking her truck into this shop for years because we've found
-        them to be reliable, efficient, and economical. As I said before, at
-        some point in their recent history they changed hands -- either
-        ownership or management, I can't remember which. It was around this time
-        that Dad decided to overhaul Mom's front suspension. He replaced the
-        ball joints, tie rod ends, and a few other worn out parts. He then did
-        his own best-guess front-end alignment, but left everything loose so
-        that YABS could finish up the alignment and tighten everything. Now read
-        that again because it's important. Dad did his own alignment in our
-        driveway (as a cost-saving measure), got it decently close, but then
-        instructed this shop to finish the job and tighten everything up.
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        Now here's where things fall apart. This shop full of professional
-        mechanics took one look at the alignment Dad did and decided it was good
-        enough. Hooray for Dad and supernatural mechanical skills, but the shop
-        didn't even touch the car. They called Dad back to come pick up the car,
-        telling him it was already good to go. They never tightened a thing,
-        even after Dad explicitly told them everything was loose and needed to
-        be tightened but they didn't to touch a thing. So what happened? Dad
-        picked up the car assuming everything was A-OK and Mom drove the car for
-        about a week before the two front tires wore down so badly they had to
-        be replaced immediately. Everything fell out of alignment as things
-        loosened further and further and the tires wore unevenly until they
-        ripped themselves to shreds. The worst part? These weren't tires with 6+
-        years on them. These were brand new tires. So YABS got to install two
-        more front tires and then tighten everything. They did not cover the
-        costs, presumably because it was Dad who had done the alignment. Strike
-        one.
-      </p>
-
-      <h2>Friend's Minivan -- Crude Necessities</h2>
-
-      <p>
-        A good friend of ours drives a 2005-2006 Chrysler Town and Country. It
-        was actually Mom's car before upgrading to the Aspen (the minivan was
-        perfect in every way but it couldn't tow). Our friend has been using
-        YABS for just a long as we have. Once again, things started getting
-        kinda strange after several years of good service. She started getting
-        charged extra for simple repairs she had them doing very consistently.
-        They also started tacking on extra items for routine jobs. She would go
-        in for an inspection and they would claim she needed a new Part X. Now
-        this in and of itself isn't an uncommon or even strange request to make.
-        As cars age they need things and sometimes you don't know what they need
-        until you visit a professional mechanic. They remember the things you
-        forget about.
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        One day they did all the forgetting, and they forgot a pretty important,
-        nay, crucial engine component: motor oil. Our friend took her minivan
-        into YABS for a routine oil change. Good diligence on her part. And
-        she's not the type to do that change on her own. She's too old to get
-        under a car anyway (no offense!). So she took the van to YABS and they
-        did a job they've done thousands of times: drain oil, replaced the
-        filter, and gave her back the car. Easy peasy right? Now I know I'm not
-        a professional but I'm thinking someone might have wanted to
-        double-check that several quarts of synthetic had left the shop shelf
-        and gone into the car they just backed out of the bay door. Now this
-        part of the story I'm a little fuzzy on so take it with a large, heaping
-        grain of salt, but I can say for a fact that they failed to
-        <em>completely</em> refill the engine oil before returning her car.
-        Supposedly there was enough in there such that the minivan survived long
-        enough for them to realize it before she drove off.
-      </p>
-
-      <h2>Monty, My 2013 Ford Focus -- Nut Allergy</h2>
-
-      <p>
-        I decided to give YABS another try after a long leave of absence. I
-        needed new tires all around for my daily driver. I also needed an
-        inspection and an alignment. A simple set of tasks for any shop (you see
-        where this is going). I initially tried to go to another local shop but
-        they were all out of the tires I was looking to get so I caved and went
-        to YABS. About halfway through the job they gave me a call and told me
-        they had some bad news. They said that there were some issues getting
-        the lug nuts off my wheels and that they had all been stripped, warped,
-        or otherwise destroyed in the process. They told me the only fix was to
-        get new ones from a supplier in town for about $160. Keep in mind the
-        entire job (inspection, tires, etc.) was going to cost $650.
-        Furthermore, dad and I had no problem getting those lug nuts off and
-        back on again just a few weeks prior when we changed the transmission
-        fluid.
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        They didn't have an explanation that I could reconcile with. Joe Schmo
-        over the phone told me this is typical of Fords and Chryslers these days
-        and that they'd like to keep my lug nuts for a class action lawsuit
-        they're participating in. Now why on Earth would any sane mechanic, with
-        full knowledge they are dealing with a defective set of lug nuts, take a
-        high power impact wrench to those wheels without speaking with the owner
-        about it first? Smelled fishy to me honestly. But what was I gonna do?
-        Dad went out and grabbed twenty new lug nuts for cheaper than they
-        wanted to sell them for.
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        Oh the tires were Cooper GTs by the way and they're amazing. They're
-        smooth and quiet and came with a very nice warranty. They're also made
-        in the USA, which is very important to me. 10/10 would recommend.
-      </p>
-
-      <h2>Ol' Blue -- Tunnel Vision</h2>
-
-      <p>
-        This was the real kicker. And this one doesn't really have any trailing
-        narrative. I got four new tires on Ol' Blue, my 1953 Hudson Hornet. They
-        were delivered to our house: four brand new Diamond Back wide white wall
-        radials. Super nice tires, with a super nice road hazard warranty (as a
-        side note I totally recommend you
-        <a href="https://dbtires.com/">check out Diamond Back's website</a> if
-        you're looking for white wall radials). So we brought the car to YABS
-        with the new tires and asked them to mount them on the car.
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        When we went to pick up the car everything looked great and I drove off.
-        I made it all the way to the Monitor Merrimack Memorial Bridge Tunnel
-        before I heard a loud rattling and a bang. I looked in the rear-view
-        mirror and swore I could see my precious hubcap rolling off to eternity.
-        When they replaced the hubcaps they didn't fully press one of them on.
-        And it's not that difficult. These hub caps are very secure when pressed
-        on the rim, we've never had problems with them. Oh and we're talking
-        about Hudson hubcaps that came with the car, and aren't super easy to
-        find. And I couldn't stop to get out and grab it because I was right at
-        the mouth of the tunnel. We went back later to try and see it but we
-        couldn't. And it was probably destroyed getting thrown from the car
-        anyways.
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        The worst part is, the hubcap took a chunk out of my white wall on its
-        way out from under the wheel skirt. So the day I got the tires I had to
-        take a picture and redeem my road hazard warranty. Luckily, Diamond Back
-        were true to their word and sent me a new one no questions asked. The
-        beat up tire is now my spare.
-      </p>
-
-      <h2>Not All Bad</h2>
-
-      <p>
-        Like I said before, YABS used to be a very nice shop with friendly
-        people that did good work. And they didn't charge exorbitant prices for
-        their work. Times have changed, and I believe management has as well.
-        I've stopped visiting their shop completely. I found a new one that I
-        trust and will be taking all of my cars to. They've already done a
-        safety inspection on Ol' Blue and didn't put up a fuss. They're clean
-        and friendly and don't seem to be out to screw me. But as with
-        everything else, your mileage may vary.
-      </p>
-    </article>
-  </body>
-</html>
diff --git a/wheels/2019-08-30-keep-right-except-to-pass.html b/wheels/2019-08-30-keep-right-except-to-pass.html
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-    <title>53hornet ➙ Left Lane is for Passing, Not Cruising</title>
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-    <article>
-      <h1>Left Lane is for Passing, Not Cruising</h1>
-
-      <p>
-        Greetings fellow drivers of Hampton Roads. You may have noticed a new
-        sign on I264 today that befuddled or confused you. It went something
-        along the lines of
-      </p>
-
-      <blockquote>LEFT LANE IS FOR PASSING NOT CRUISING</blockquote>
-
-      <p>
-        Believe it or not this has been the law throughout Virginia for years
-        (<a
-          href="https://law.lis.virginia.gov/vacode/title46.2/chapter8/section46.2-804/"
-          >read about it here</a
-        >
-        and
-        <a
-          href="https://law.lis.virginia.gov/vacode/title46.2/chapter8/section46.2-842.1/"
-          >here</a
-        >). The law states you keep right except while passing. In most other
-        states things work this way but in Virginia, especially around here, the
-        left lane is treated as a moving, cruising lane. If you're in the left
-        lane and you've completed a pass please be mindful of the cars behind
-        you and move back over into the right-hand lane(s) so that other drivers
-        can do the same.
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        It's really nice when this is practiced (like I said, I've experienced
-        it in other states) because you can easily move over when there are slow
-        vehicles ahead and then continue on your merry way. It reduces
-        congestion and prevents people from having to pass in the right lane,
-        which is both annoying and dangerous. Especially since this is typically
-        the lane cars from entrance and exit ramps are merging with.
-      </p>
-
-      <p>
-        Don't forget too that it isn't rude or road-rage-y for someone behind
-        you to honk their horn or flash their lights if you're moving too slowly
-        in the passing lane. This is a perfectly polite request to pass you. You
-        don't set or enforce the speed limit. The correct (and legal) thing to
-        do, believe it or not, is to move over and slow down to let them pass
-        you. It's all about safe and sane driving etiquette. If you aren't
-        actively passing other cars, move on over to the right. It goes a long
-        way.
-      </p>
-    </article>
-  </body>
-</html>
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