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+---
+permalink: "/posts/{{categories}}/{{slug}}"
+title: How to Start and Drive a Hudson Hornet
+categories:
+  - automotive
+tags:
+  - hudson
+  - hornet
+  - start
+  - drive
+published_date: "2019-06-07 00:30:37 +0000"
+layout: post.liquid
+is_draft: false
+---
+My understanding is there are a lot of people out there for whom driving a car
+from the mid-20th century is an oddity, a curiosity, or a life experience they
+can't relate to. It's hard to capture what the actual experience is like in
+words (hopefully my YouTube channel does a better job) but I think instead I
+can do my best here to walk through the procedure of actually *operating* a
+Hudson Hornet.
+
+There are some significant differences between driving the Hornet and most
+other cars you come across today. Some of them are just because there are
+sixty-six years between the Hudson and the 2019 model year. Others are
+Hudson-specific. Many people who I've talked to have said that they would feel
+intimidated driving my car (whether that's because of its perceived complexity
+or obvious value to me). So, for those who just want to know how it's done:
+here is how you start and drive a Hudson Hornet.
+
+# The Gauge Cluster, Switches, and Controls
+
+Open the door, slide onto the bench seat, and sit behind the [massive] steering
+wheel. For those who haven't experienced it before, it feels like you have a
+whole lot of room at your disposal, almost like there *should* be more matter
+occupying the space around you. In front of you is probably the shiniest
+dashboard you've ever seen. It's simple, and probably slightly familiar. 
+
+From left to right above the steering wheel you have: 
+
+- A speedometer that tops out at 120 mph (with 99K odometer inside)
+- Fuel and coolant temperature gauges (and two warning lights; more on those
+  later)
+- A mechanical, electrically-wound clock
+- An AM radio
+- A glove compartment
+
+From left to right under the steering wheel you have: 
+
+- A 2-speed wiper control knob
+- A weather control (heater) temperature slider
+- A 2-speed weather control fan knob
+- The ignition barrel
+- A headlight switch
+- A cigar-lighter (yes, cigar. Check out the owner's manual)
+
+Also, underneath the dashboard on the left there is a parking brake handle and
+hood latch release and on the right there is an arm which raises and lowers the
+fresh air cowl vent. Think of it as "recirculate" in more modern vehicles. If
+you're looking for the turn signal lever it's the tiny stick to the left of the
+steering wheel. The indicator is the little yellow light on the far left of the
+dash. There's only one so it flashes when you're signalling left or right. We
+also added our own air conditioning system, something Hudsons never came with
+from the factory.
+
+# Dual-Range Hydramatic
+
+The first thing that might confuse some folks when they first see the car
+running is the shift lever. Many Hornets came with three-speed manual
+transmissions that were shifted from the column (overdrive was an option).
+However, lots of owners paid extra for the optional "Dual-range Hydramatic", a
+fully automatic transmission from General Motors. Truly, this car has a 4-speed
+automatic that requires no manual shifting during normal use, making it that
+much easier to take a boatload of people to get milkshakes.
+
+Behind the steering wheel is a shift indicator that deviates from the "PRNDL"
+pattern most folks are familiar with. From left to right (shift arm fully at
+the top to arm fully towards the bottom), the 'gears' are:
+
+- N (Neutral)
+- 4-Dr (Drive, all four speeds)
+- 3-Dr (Drive, three speeds only)
+- Lo (Low gear)
+- R (Reverse)
+
+Neutral isn't just a mid-way point between reverse and drive in this car. It's
+a necessity. With automatic Hornets (and Hydramatics in general), neutral is
+used to start the car. There is an electric lockout preventing the car from
+being started in any gear but neutral, so you do have to put the car in neutral
+before you turn the key (if you're on a hill put your foot on the brake or
+engage the parking brake).
+
+Drive is split into 4-Dr and 3-Dr, which basically decides whether the
+transmission utilizes high gear. In the owner's manual, Hudson recommends using
+3-Dr for driving around town (as the low RPMs delivered by high gear means
+unnecessary shifting in and out of 4th gear) and 4-Dr for highway driving. It
+really depends on what speed you're going to be driving at but there isn't
+anything wrong with driving around in 4 all the time. I typically leave it in
+4th at sustained speeds above 45MPH. You can switch between these gears any
+time while moving. 
+
+Low gear basically locks the transmission in 2nd gear so you don't spin the
+wheels. The owner's manual says this is for pulling out of sand or dirt if you
+get stuck.
+
+Reverse works just about how you might expect but with an added catch: if the
+engine is off it acts as park. That's right. When you turn the car off you can
+put it in reverse and the transmission will engage a lock pin to prevent the
+car from rolling. You can't start the car in this gear because of the lockout
+however so you have to shift into neutral to start the car. So for starting,
+put it in neutral, for stopping, put it in reverse. 
+
+# Choke and Gas
+
+For cold starts, our Hornet (and I believe this was common for other Hudsons of
+the time) is equipped with an automatic 2-stage choke. Push the pedal all the
+way to the floor once to set the choke. After the car has started and has
+warmed up, kick the gas quickly to the floor and release to cancel the choke. 
+
+For warm starts the engine doesn't need the choke but likes to be given just a
+little bit of gas while cranking.
+
+# The Keys, Ignition, and Warning Lights
+
+Hudsons like mine come with two keys. The octagonal one is for starting the
+car, it's used in the ignition. The round one is used for the door and trunk
+locks (and I believe in my case the glove box). My understanding is this is
+actually reversed from the majority of Hudsons and is due to a locksmith error
+at one point or another.
+
+The ignition switch sits so that the teeth of the key enter vertically. Turning
+the key left powers accessories like the radio. Turning the key right once
+switches the car to "ON" which will allow the engine to be started and remain
+running.
+
+Here's where some things may vary depending on the year of the car. For '51
+Hornets, there's a separate starter button located all the way on the left
+control pod. For these cars, you put the key in and turn it to "ON", and then
+press and hold the button until the car has started up. For '52 Hornets
+onwards, the ignition switch also activates the starter if you turn the key
+past "ON" (like in most modern vehicles). 
+
+If you turn the key to "ON" you'll see two red warning lights appear on the
+dash next to the indicators marked "AMP" and "OIL". These are [alternator]
+charging status and oil pressure status lights. Our car is equipped with a 12-V
+alternator system so the AMP light really comes on if there is low voltage
+while the oil pressure light comes on when there's low oil pressure. These
+lights will only appear with engine off, key "ON" or if something has gone very
+wrong. 
+
+# Starting and Driving
+
+So now that I've gone over the basics of all the components, here is the normal
+starting procedure. It actually varies depending on whether the engine has been
+warmed up. That's life with carburetors.
+
+## From cold: 
+
+- Put your foot on the brake, and shift the lever into neutral. Just push it
+  vertically, pulling towards you slightly if you need to.
+- Push the gas pedal all the way to the floor once and let your foot back up
+  again to set the choke. 
+- Put the key in the ignition and start the car (the "AMP" and "OIL" lights
+  should switch off. 
+- Wait for the engine to smooth out so you know that it's warm enough to cancel
+  the choke, and kick the gas pedal once to cancel it. (If the RPMs are still
+higher than idle then it's not quite at operating temperature yet)
+- Pull the shifter down into 4-Dr or 3-Dr (or R), and release the parking brake
+  by twisting the handle towards the steering wheel
+- Let off the brake and you're off!
+
+## From warm:
+
+- Put your foot on the brake and shift into neutral.
+- While giving just a little bit of gas, start the car. Both warning lights
+  should disappear. When the engine fires up you can let off the gas and let it
+idle.
+- Pull the shifter into 4-Dr or 3-Dr (or R), and release the parking brake by
+  twisting the handle towards the steering wheel.
+- Done.
+
+# Stopping and parking
+
+- Hold your foot on the brake and twist the parking brake handle towards the
+  door of the car, and pull it towards you
+- When you're ready to shut off the engine, you can shift it into either
+  neutral or reverse and turn the key off. Shift it into reverse if you haven't
+already to lock the transmission.
+
+Note: I usually engage the parking brake AND put the car in reverse, just to be
+safe. If you had to pick one however I would use the transmission in case
+you're on a steep hill and your brakes fail for whatever reason.
+
+And there you have it! Not much is different from most cars around today but
+there are one or two quirks (more about old cars than about Hudsons in
+particular). The only major thing to keep track of while driving is that you
+have no power steering, so get ready to anticipate turns sooner and use more of
+the wheel with every turn.
diff --git a/posts/how-to-start-and-drive-a-hudson-hornet.md b/posts/how-to-start-and-drive-a-hudson-hornet.md
deleted file mode 100644
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--- a/posts/how-to-start-and-drive-a-hudson-hornet.md
+++ /dev/null
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----
-permalink: /posts/{{categories}}/{{slug}}
-title: How to Start and Drive a Hudson Hornet
-categories: 
-    - automotive
-tags: []
-layout: post.liquid
-is_draft: true
----
-Start writing already...