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-permalink: "/posts/{{categories}}/{{slug}}"
-title: How to Start and Drive a Hudson Hornet
-categories:
-  - automotive
-tags:
-  - hudson
-  - hornet
-  - start
-  - drive
-published_date: "2019-06-07 00:30:37 +0000"
-layout: post.liquid
-is_draft: false
-excerpt_separator: "\n\n\n"
----
-
-My understanding is there are a lot of people out there for whom driving a car
-from the mid-20th century is an oddity, a curiosity, or a life experience they
-can't relate to. It's hard to capture what the actual experience is like in
-words (hopefully my YouTube channel does a better job) but I think instead I
-can do my best here to walk through the procedure of actually *operating* a
-Hudson Hornet.
-
-There are some significant differences between driving the Hornet and most
-other cars you come across today. Some of them are just because there are
-sixty-six years between the Hudson and the 2019 model year. Others are
-Hudson-specific. Many people who I've talked to have said that they would feel
-intimidated driving my car (whether that's because of its perceived complexity
-or obvious value to me). So, for those who just want to know how it's done:
-here is how you start and drive a Hudson Hornet.
-
-# The Gauge Cluster, Switches, and Controls
-
-Open the door, slide onto the bench seat, and sit behind the [massive] steering
-wheel. For those who haven't experienced it before, it feels like you have a
-whole lot of room at your disposal, almost like there *should* be more matter
-occupying the space around you. In front of you is probably the shiniest
-dashboard you've ever seen. It's simple, and probably slightly familiar. 
-
-From left to right above the steering wheel you have: 
-
-- A speedometer that tops out at 120 mph (with 99K odometer inside)
-- Fuel and coolant temperature gauges (and two warning lights; more on those
-  later)
-- A mechanical, electrically-wound clock
-- An AM radio
-- A glove compartment
-
-From left to right under the steering wheel you have: 
-
-- A 2-speed wiper control knob
-- A weather control (heater) temperature slider
-- A 2-speed weather control fan knob
-- The ignition barrel
-- A headlight switch
-- A cigar-lighter (yes, cigar. Check out the owner's manual)
-
-Also, underneath the dashboard on the left there is a parking brake handle and
-hood latch release and on the right there is an arm which raises and lowers the
-fresh air cowl vent. Think of it as "recirculate" in more modern vehicles. If
-you're looking for the turn signal lever it's the tiny stick to the left of the
-steering wheel. The indicator is the little yellow light on the far left of the
-dash. There's only one so it flashes when you're signalling left or right. We
-also added our own air conditioning system, something Hudsons never came with
-from the factory.
-
-# Dual-Range Hydramatic
-
-The first thing that might confuse some folks when they first see the car
-running is the shift lever. Many Hornets came with three-speed manual
-transmissions that were shifted from the column (overdrive was an option).
-However, lots of owners paid extra for the optional "Dual-range Hydramatic", a
-fully automatic transmission from General Motors. Truly, this car has a 4-speed
-automatic that requires no manual shifting during normal use, making it that
-much easier to take a boatload of people to get milkshakes.
-
-Behind the steering wheel is a shift indicator that deviates from the "PRNDL"
-pattern most folks are familiar with. From left to right (shift arm fully at
-the top to arm fully towards the bottom), the 'gears' are:
-
-- N (Neutral)
-- 4-Dr (Drive, all four speeds)
-- 3-Dr (Drive, three speeds only)
-- Lo (Low gear)
-- R (Reverse)
-
-Neutral isn't just a mid-way point between reverse and drive in this car. It's
-a necessity. With automatic Hornets (and Hydramatics in general), neutral is
-used to start the car. There is an electric lockout preventing the car from
-being started in any gear but neutral, so you do have to put the car in neutral
-before you turn the key (if you're on a hill put your foot on the brake or
-engage the parking brake).
-
-Drive is split into 4-Dr and 3-Dr, which basically decides whether the
-transmission utilizes high gear. In the owner's manual, Hudson recommends using
-3-Dr for driving around town (as the low RPMs delivered by high gear means
-unnecessary shifting in and out of 4th gear) and 4-Dr for highway driving. It
-really depends on what speed you're going to be driving at but there isn't
-anything wrong with driving around in 4 all the time. I typically leave it in
-4th at sustained speeds above 45MPH. You can switch between these gears any
-time while moving. 
-
-Low gear basically locks the transmission in 2nd gear so you don't spin the
-wheels. The owner's manual says this is for pulling out of sand or dirt if you
-get stuck.
-
-Reverse works just about how you might expect but with an added catch: if the
-engine is off it acts as park. That's right. When you turn the car off you can
-put it in reverse and the transmission will engage a lock pin to prevent the
-car from rolling. You can't start the car in this gear because of the lockout
-however so you have to shift into neutral to start the car. So for starting,
-put it in neutral, for stopping, put it in reverse. 
-
-# Choke and Gas
-
-For cold starts, our Hornet (and I believe this was common for other Hudsons of
-the time) is equipped with an automatic 2-stage choke. Push the pedal all the
-way to the floor once to set the choke. After the car has started and has
-warmed up, kick the gas quickly to the floor and release to cancel the choke. 
-
-For warm starts the engine doesn't need the choke but likes to be given just a
-little bit of gas while cranking.
-
-# The Keys, Ignition, and Warning Lights
-
-Hudsons like mine come with two keys. The octagonal one is for starting the
-car, it's used in the ignition. The round one is used for the door and trunk
-locks (and I believe in my case the glove box). My understanding is this is
-actually reversed from the majority of Hudsons and is due to a locksmith error
-at one point or another.
-
-The ignition switch sits so that the teeth of the key enter vertically. Turning
-the key left powers accessories like the radio. Turning the key right once
-switches the car to "ON" which will allow the engine to be started and remain
-running.
-
-Here's where some things may vary depending on the year of the car. For '51
-Hornets, there's a separate starter button located all the way on the left
-control pod. For these cars, you put the key in and turn it to "ON", and then
-press and hold the button until the car has started up. For '52 Hornets
-onwards, the ignition switch also activates the starter if you turn the key
-past "ON" (like in most modern vehicles). 
-
-If you turn the key to "ON" you'll see two red warning lights appear on the
-dash next to the indicators marked "AMP" and "OIL". These are [alternator]
-charging status and oil pressure status lights. Our car is equipped with a 12-V
-alternator system so the AMP light really comes on if there is low voltage
-while the oil pressure light comes on when there's low oil pressure. These
-lights will only appear with engine off, key "ON" or if something has gone very
-wrong. 
-
-# Starting and Driving
-
-So now that I've gone over the basics of all the components, here is the normal
-starting procedure. It actually varies depending on whether the engine has been
-warmed up. That's life with carburetors.
-
-## From cold: 
-
-- Put your foot on the brake, and shift the lever into neutral. Just push it
-  vertically, pulling towards you slightly if you need to.
-- Push the gas pedal all the way to the floor once and let your foot back up
-  again to set the choke. 
-- Put the key in the ignition and start the car (the "AMP" and "OIL" lights
-  should switch off. 
-- Wait for the engine to smooth out so you know that it's warm enough to cancel
-  the choke, and kick the gas pedal once to cancel it. (If the RPMs are still
-higher than idle then it's not quite at operating temperature yet)
-- Pull the shifter down into 4-Dr or 3-Dr (or R), and release the parking brake
-  by twisting the handle towards the steering wheel
-- Let off the brake and you're off!
-
-## From warm:
-
-- Put your foot on the brake and shift into neutral.
-- While giving just a little bit of gas, start the car. Both warning lights
-  should disappear. When the engine fires up you can let off the gas and let it
-idle.
-- Pull the shifter into 4-Dr or 3-Dr (or R), and release the parking brake by
-  twisting the handle towards the steering wheel.
-- Done.
-
-# Stopping and parking
-
-- Hold your foot on the brake and twist the parking brake handle towards the
-  door of the car, and pull it towards you
-- When you're ready to shut off the engine, you can shift it into either
-  neutral or reverse and turn the key off. Shift it into reverse if you haven't
-already to lock the transmission.
-
-Note: I usually engage the parking brake AND put the car in reverse, just to be
-safe. If you had to pick one however I would use the transmission in case
-you're on a steep hill and your brakes fail for whatever reason.
-
-And there you have it! Not much is different from most cars around today but
-there are one or two quirks (more about old cars than about Hudsons in
-particular). The only major thing to keep track of while driving is that you
-have no power steering, so get ready to anticipate turns sooner and use more of
-the wheel with every turn.
-
-
-