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diff --git a/wheels/2019-06-07-how-to-start-and-drive-a-hudson-hornet.md b/wheels/2019-06-07-how-to-start-and-drive-a-hudson-hornet.md deleted file mode 100644 index 312ad8c..0000000 --- a/wheels/2019-06-07-how-to-start-and-drive-a-hudson-hornet.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,202 +0,0 @@ ---- -permalink: "/posts/{{categories}}/{{slug}}" -title: How to Start and Drive a Hudson Hornet -categories: - - automotive -tags: - - hudson - - hornet - - start - - drive -published_date: "2019-06-07 00:30:37 +0000" -layout: post.liquid -is_draft: false -excerpt_separator: "\n\n\n" ---- - -My understanding is there are a lot of people out there for whom driving a car -from the mid-20th century is an oddity, a curiosity, or a life experience they -can't relate to. It's hard to capture what the actual experience is like in -words (hopefully my YouTube channel does a better job) but I think instead I -can do my best here to walk through the procedure of actually *operating* a -Hudson Hornet. - -There are some significant differences between driving the Hornet and most -other cars you come across today. Some of them are just because there are -sixty-six years between the Hudson and the 2019 model year. Others are -Hudson-specific. Many people who I've talked to have said that they would feel -intimidated driving my car (whether that's because of its perceived complexity -or obvious value to me). So, for those who just want to know how it's done: -here is how you start and drive a Hudson Hornet. - -# The Gauge Cluster, Switches, and Controls - -Open the door, slide onto the bench seat, and sit behind the [massive] steering -wheel. For those who haven't experienced it before, it feels like you have a -whole lot of room at your disposal, almost like there *should* be more matter -occupying the space around you. In front of you is probably the shiniest -dashboard you've ever seen. It's simple, and probably slightly familiar. - -From left to right above the steering wheel you have: - -- A speedometer that tops out at 120 mph (with 99K odometer inside) -- Fuel and coolant temperature gauges (and two warning lights; more on those - later) -- A mechanical, electrically-wound clock -- An AM radio -- A glove compartment - -From left to right under the steering wheel you have: - -- A 2-speed wiper control knob -- A weather control (heater) temperature slider -- A 2-speed weather control fan knob -- The ignition barrel -- A headlight switch -- A cigar-lighter (yes, cigar. Check out the owner's manual) - -Also, underneath the dashboard on the left there is a parking brake handle and -hood latch release and on the right there is an arm which raises and lowers the -fresh air cowl vent. Think of it as "recirculate" in more modern vehicles. If -you're looking for the turn signal lever it's the tiny stick to the left of the -steering wheel. The indicator is the little yellow light on the far left of the -dash. There's only one so it flashes when you're signalling left or right. We -also added our own air conditioning system, something Hudsons never came with -from the factory. - -# Dual-Range Hydramatic - -The first thing that might confuse some folks when they first see the car -running is the shift lever. Many Hornets came with three-speed manual -transmissions that were shifted from the column (overdrive was an option). -However, lots of owners paid extra for the optional "Dual-range Hydramatic", a -fully automatic transmission from General Motors. Truly, this car has a 4-speed -automatic that requires no manual shifting during normal use, making it that -much easier to take a boatload of people to get milkshakes. - -Behind the steering wheel is a shift indicator that deviates from the "PRNDL" -pattern most folks are familiar with. From left to right (shift arm fully at -the top to arm fully towards the bottom), the 'gears' are: - -- N (Neutral) -- 4-Dr (Drive, all four speeds) -- 3-Dr (Drive, three speeds only) -- Lo (Low gear) -- R (Reverse) - -Neutral isn't just a mid-way point between reverse and drive in this car. It's -a necessity. With automatic Hornets (and Hydramatics in general), neutral is -used to start the car. There is an electric lockout preventing the car from -being started in any gear but neutral, so you do have to put the car in neutral -before you turn the key (if you're on a hill put your foot on the brake or -engage the parking brake). - -Drive is split into 4-Dr and 3-Dr, which basically decides whether the -transmission utilizes high gear. In the owner's manual, Hudson recommends using -3-Dr for driving around town (as the low RPMs delivered by high gear means -unnecessary shifting in and out of 4th gear) and 4-Dr for highway driving. It -really depends on what speed you're going to be driving at but there isn't -anything wrong with driving around in 4 all the time. I typically leave it in -4th at sustained speeds above 45MPH. You can switch between these gears any -time while moving. - -Low gear basically locks the transmission in 2nd gear so you don't spin the -wheels. The owner's manual says this is for pulling out of sand or dirt if you -get stuck. - -Reverse works just about how you might expect but with an added catch: if the -engine is off it acts as park. That's right. When you turn the car off you can -put it in reverse and the transmission will engage a lock pin to prevent the -car from rolling. You can't start the car in this gear because of the lockout -however so you have to shift into neutral to start the car. So for starting, -put it in neutral, for stopping, put it in reverse. - -# Choke and Gas - -For cold starts, our Hornet (and I believe this was common for other Hudsons of -the time) is equipped with an automatic 2-stage choke. Push the pedal all the -way to the floor once to set the choke. After the car has started and has -warmed up, kick the gas quickly to the floor and release to cancel the choke. - -For warm starts the engine doesn't need the choke but likes to be given just a -little bit of gas while cranking. - -# The Keys, Ignition, and Warning Lights - -Hudsons like mine come with two keys. The octagonal one is for starting the -car, it's used in the ignition. The round one is used for the door and trunk -locks (and I believe in my case the glove box). My understanding is this is -actually reversed from the majority of Hudsons and is due to a locksmith error -at one point or another. - -The ignition switch sits so that the teeth of the key enter vertically. Turning -the key left powers accessories like the radio. Turning the key right once -switches the car to "ON" which will allow the engine to be started and remain -running. - -Here's where some things may vary depending on the year of the car. For '51 -Hornets, there's a separate starter button located all the way on the left -control pod. For these cars, you put the key in and turn it to "ON", and then -press and hold the button until the car has started up. For '52 Hornets -onwards, the ignition switch also activates the starter if you turn the key -past "ON" (like in most modern vehicles). - -If you turn the key to "ON" you'll see two red warning lights appear on the -dash next to the indicators marked "AMP" and "OIL". These are [alternator] -charging status and oil pressure status lights. Our car is equipped with a 12-V -alternator system so the AMP light really comes on if there is low voltage -while the oil pressure light comes on when there's low oil pressure. These -lights will only appear with engine off, key "ON" or if something has gone very -wrong. - -# Starting and Driving - -So now that I've gone over the basics of all the components, here is the normal -starting procedure. It actually varies depending on whether the engine has been -warmed up. That's life with carburetors. - -## From cold: - -- Put your foot on the brake, and shift the lever into neutral. Just push it - vertically, pulling towards you slightly if you need to. -- Push the gas pedal all the way to the floor once and let your foot back up - again to set the choke. -- Put the key in the ignition and start the car (the "AMP" and "OIL" lights - should switch off. -- Wait for the engine to smooth out so you know that it's warm enough to cancel - the choke, and kick the gas pedal once to cancel it. (If the RPMs are still -higher than idle then it's not quite at operating temperature yet) -- Pull the shifter down into 4-Dr or 3-Dr (or R), and release the parking brake - by twisting the handle towards the steering wheel -- Let off the brake and you're off! - -## From warm: - -- Put your foot on the brake and shift into neutral. -- While giving just a little bit of gas, start the car. Both warning lights - should disappear. When the engine fires up you can let off the gas and let it -idle. -- Pull the shifter into 4-Dr or 3-Dr (or R), and release the parking brake by - twisting the handle towards the steering wheel. -- Done. - -# Stopping and parking - -- Hold your foot on the brake and twist the parking brake handle towards the - door of the car, and pull it towards you -- When you're ready to shut off the engine, you can shift it into either - neutral or reverse and turn the key off. Shift it into reverse if you haven't -already to lock the transmission. - -Note: I usually engage the parking brake AND put the car in reverse, just to be -safe. If you had to pick one however I would use the transmission in case -you're on a steep hill and your brakes fail for whatever reason. - -And there you have it! Not much is different from most cars around today but -there are one or two quirks (more about old cars than about Hudsons in -particular). The only major thing to keep track of while driving is that you -have no power steering, so get ready to anticipate turns sooner and use more of -the wheel with every turn. - - - |