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authorAdam T. Carpenter <atc@53hor.net>2021-04-21 22:57:39 -0400
committerAdam T. Carpenter <atc@53hor.net>2021-04-21 22:57:39 -0400
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+ <article>
+ <h1>How to Start and Drive a Hudson Hornet</h1>
+
+ <p class="description">
+ My understanding is there are a lot of people out there for whom driving
+ a car from the mid-20th century is an oddity, a curiosity, or a life
+ experience they can't relate to. This is for the non-experts, and
+ non-Hudsonites to get an idea of what it's like.
+ </p>
+
+ <p>
+ There are some significant differences between driving the Hornet and
+ most other cars you come across today. Some of them are just because
+ there are sixty-six years between the Hudson and the 2019 model year.
+ Others are Hudson-specific. Many people who I've talked to have said
+ that they would feel intimidated driving my car (whether that's because
+ of its perceived complexity or obvious value to me). So, for those who
+ just want to know how it's done: here is how you start and drive a
+ Hudson Hornet.
+ </p>
+
+ <h2>The Gauge Cluster, Switches, and Controls</h2>
+
+ <p>
+ Open the door, slide onto the bench seat, and sit behind the [massive]
+ steering wheel. For those who haven't experienced it before, it feels
+ like you have a whole lot of room at your disposal, almost like there
+ <em>should</em> be more matter occupying the space around you. In front
+ of you is probably the shiniest dashboard you've ever seen. It's simple,
+ and probably slightly familiar.
+ </p>
+ <p>From left to right above the steering wheel you have:</p>
+ <ul>
+ <li>
+ A speedometer that tops out at 120 mph (with 99K odometer inside)
+ </li>
+ <li>
+ Fuel and coolant temperature gauges (and two dummy lights; more on
+ those later)
+ </li>
+ <li>A clock</li>
+ <li>An AM radio</li>
+ <li>A glove compartment</li>
+ </ul>
+
+ <p>From left to right under the steering wheel you have:</p>
+ <ul>
+ <li>A 2-speed wiper control knob</li>
+ <li>A weather control (heater) temperature slider</li>
+ <li>A 2-speed weather control fan knob</li>
+ <li>The ignition barrel</li>
+ <li>A headlight switch</li>
+ <li>
+ A cigarette-lighter (the owner's manual calls it a cigar lighter!)
+ </li>
+ </ul>
+
+ <p>
+ Also, underneath the dashboard on the left there is a parking brake
+ handle and hood latch release and on the right there is an arm which
+ raises and lowers the fresh air cowl vent. Think of it as "recirculate"
+ in more modern vehicles. If you're looking for the turn signal lever
+ it's the tiny stick to the left of the steering wheel. The indicator is
+ the little yellow light on the far left of the dash. There's only one so
+ it flashes when you're signalling left or right. We also added our own
+ air conditioning system, something Hudsons never came with from the
+ factory.
+ </p>
+
+ <h2>Dual-Range Hydramatic</h2>
+
+ <p>
+ The first thing that might confuse some folks when they first see the
+ car running is the shift lever. Many Hornets came with three-speed
+ manual transmissions that were shifted from the column (overdrive was an
+ option). However, lots of owners paid extra for the optional "Dual-range
+ Hydramatic", a fully automatic transmission from General Motors. Truly,
+ this car has a 4-speed automatic that requires no manual shifting during
+ normal use, making it that much easier to take a boatload of people to
+ get milkshakes.
+ </p>
+
+ <p>
+ Behind the steering wheel is a shift indicator that deviates from the
+ "PRNDL" pattern most folks are familiar with. From left to right (shift
+ arm fully at the top to arm fully towards the bottom), the 'gears' are:
+ </p>
+ <ul>
+ <li>N (Neutral)</li>
+ <li>4-Dr (Drive, all four speeds)</li>
+ <li>3-Dr (Drive, three speeds only)</li>
+ <li>Lo (Low gear)</li>
+ <li>R (Reverse)</li>
+ </ul>
+
+ <p>
+ Neutral isn't just a mid-way point between reverse and drive in this
+ car. It's a necessity. With automatic Hornets (and Hydramatics in
+ general), neutral is used to start the car. There is an electric lockout
+ preventing the car from being started in any gear but neutral, so you do
+ have to put the car in neutral before you turn the key (if you're on a
+ hill put your foot on the brake or engage the parking brake).
+ </p>
+
+ <p>
+ Drive is split into 4-Dr and 3-Dr, which basically decides whether the
+ transmission utilizes high gear. In the owner's manual, Hudson
+ recommends using 3-Dr for driving around town (as the low RPMs delivered
+ by high gear means unnecessary shifting in and out of 4th gear) and 4-Dr
+ for highway driving. It really depends on what speed you're going to be
+ driving at but there isn't anything wrong with driving around in 4 all
+ the time. I typically leave it in 4th at sustained speeds above 45MPH.
+ You can switch between these gears any time while moving.
+ </p>
+
+ <p>
+ Low gear basically locks the transmission in 2nd gear so you don't spin
+ the wheels. The owner's manual says this is for pulling out of sand or
+ dirt if you get stuck.
+ </p>
+
+ <p>
+ Reverse works just about how you might expect but with an added catch:
+ if the engine is off it acts as park. That's right. When you turn the
+ car off you can put it in reverse and the transmission will engage a
+ lock pin to prevent the car from rolling. You can't start the car in
+ this gear because of the lockout however so you have to shift into
+ neutral to start the car. So for starting, put it in neutral, for
+ stopping, put it in reverse.
+ </p>
+
+ <h2>Choke and Gas</h2>
+
+ <p>
+ For cold starts, our Hornet (and I believe this was common for other
+ Hudsons of the time) is equipped with an automatic 2-stage choke. Push
+ the pedal all the way to the floor once to set the choke. After the car
+ has started and has warmed up, kick the gas quickly to the floor and
+ release to cancel the choke.
+ </p>
+
+ <p>
+ For warm starts the engine doesn't need the choke but likes to be given
+ just a little bit of gas while cranking.
+ </p>
+
+ <h2>The Keys, Ignition, and Warning Lights</h2>
+
+ <p>
+ Hudsons like mine come with two keys. The octagonal one is for starting
+ the car, it's used in the ignition. The round one is used for the door
+ and trunk locks (and I believe in my case the glove box). My
+ understanding is this is actually reversed from the majority of Hudsons
+ and is due to a locksmith error at one point or another.
+ </p>
+
+ <p>
+ The ignition switch sits so that the teeth of the key enter vertically.
+ Turning the key left powers accessories like the radio. Turning the key
+ right once switches the car to "ON" which will allow the engine to be
+ started and remain running.
+ </p>
+
+ <p>
+ Here's where some things may vary depending on the year of the car. For
+ '51 Hornets, there's a separate starter button located all the way on
+ the left control pod. For these cars, you put the key in and turn it to
+ "ON", and then press and hold the button until the car has started up.
+ For '52 Hornets onwards, the ignition switch also activates the starter
+ if you turn the key past "ON" (like in most modern vehicles).
+ </p>
+
+ <p>
+ If you turn the key to "ON" you'll see two red warning lights appear on
+ the dash next to the indicators marked "AMP" and "OIL". These are
+ [alternator] charging status and oil pressure status lights. Our car is
+ equipped with a 12-V alternator system so the AMP light really comes on
+ if there is low voltage while the oil pressure light comes on when
+ there's low oil pressure. These lights will only appear with engine off,
+ key "ON" or if something has gone very wrong.
+ </p>
+
+ <h2>Starting and Driving</h2>
+
+ <p>
+ So now that I've gone over the basics of all the components, here is the
+ normal starting procedure. It actually varies depending on whether the
+ engine has been warmed up. That's life with carburetors.
+ </p>
+
+ <h3>From cold:</h3>
+
+ <ul>
+ <li>
+ Put your foot on the brake, and shift the lever into neutral. Just
+ push it vertically, pulling towards you slightly if you need to.
+ </li>
+ <li>
+ Push the gas pedal all the way to the floor once and let your foot
+ back up again to set the choke.
+ </li>
+ <li>
+ Put the key in the ignition and start the car (the "AMP" and "OIL"
+ lights should switch off.
+ </li>
+ <li>
+ Wait for the engine to smooth out so you know that it's warm enough to
+ cancel the choke, and kick the gas pedal once to cancel it. (If the
+ RPMs are still higher than idle then it's not quite at operating
+ temperature yet)
+ </li>
+ <li>
+ Pull the shifter down into 4-Dr or 3-Dr (or R), and release the
+ parking brake by twisting the handle towards the steering wheel
+ </li>
+ <li>Let off the brake and you're off!</li>
+ </ul>
+
+ <h3>From warm:</h3>
+
+ <ul>
+ <li>Put your foot on the brake and shift into neutral.</li>
+ <li>
+ While giving just a little bit of gas, start the car. Both warning
+ lights should disappear. When the engine fires up you can let off the
+ gas and let it idle.
+ </li>
+ <li>
+ Pull the shifter into 4-Dr or 3-Dr (or R), and release the parking
+ brake by twisting the handle towards the steering wheel.
+ </li>
+ <li>Done.</li>
+ </ul>
+
+ <h2>Stopping and Parking</h2>
+
+ <ul>
+ <li>
+ Hold your foot on the brake and twist the parking brake handle towards
+ the door of the car, and pull it towards you
+ </li>
+ <li>
+ When you're ready to shut off the engine, you can shift it into either
+ neutral or reverse and turn the key off. Shift it into reverse if you
+ haven't already to lock the transmission.
+ </li>
+ </ul>
+
+ <p>
+ Note: I usually engage the parking brake AND put the car in reverse,
+ just to be safe. If you had to pick one however I would use the
+ transmission in case you're on a steep hill and your brakes fail for
+ whatever reason.
+ </p>
+
+ <p>
+ And there you have it! Not much is different from most cars around today
+ but there are one or two quirks (more about old cars than about Hudsons
+ in particular). The only major thing to keep track of while driving is
+ that you have no power steering, so get ready to anticipate turns sooner
+ and use more of the wheel with every turn.
+ </p>
+ </article>
+ </body>
+</html>