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diff --git a/wheels/2019-06-07-how-to-start-and-drive-a-hudson-hornet.md b/wheels/2019-06-07-how-to-start-and-drive-a-hudson-hornet.md
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/wheels/2019-06-07-how-to-start-and-drive-a-hudson-hornet.md
@@ -0,0 +1,202 @@
+---
+permalink: "/posts/{{categories}}/{{slug}}"
+title: How to Start and Drive a Hudson Hornet
+categories:
+  - automotive
+tags:
+  - hudson
+  - hornet
+  - start
+  - drive
+published_date: "2019-06-07 00:30:37 +0000"
+layout: post.liquid
+is_draft: false
+excerpt_separator: "\n\n\n"
+---
+
+My understanding is there are a lot of people out there for whom driving a car
+from the mid-20th century is an oddity, a curiosity, or a life experience they
+can't relate to. It's hard to capture what the actual experience is like in
+words (hopefully my YouTube channel does a better job) but I think instead I
+can do my best here to walk through the procedure of actually *operating* a
+Hudson Hornet.
+
+There are some significant differences between driving the Hornet and most
+other cars you come across today. Some of them are just because there are
+sixty-six years between the Hudson and the 2019 model year. Others are
+Hudson-specific. Many people who I've talked to have said that they would feel
+intimidated driving my car (whether that's because of its perceived complexity
+or obvious value to me). So, for those who just want to know how it's done:
+here is how you start and drive a Hudson Hornet.
+
+# The Gauge Cluster, Switches, and Controls
+
+Open the door, slide onto the bench seat, and sit behind the [massive] steering
+wheel. For those who haven't experienced it before, it feels like you have a
+whole lot of room at your disposal, almost like there *should* be more matter
+occupying the space around you. In front of you is probably the shiniest
+dashboard you've ever seen. It's simple, and probably slightly familiar. 
+
+From left to right above the steering wheel you have: 
+
+- A speedometer that tops out at 120 mph (with 99K odometer inside)
+- Fuel and coolant temperature gauges (and two warning lights; more on those
+  later)
+- A mechanical, electrically-wound clock
+- An AM radio
+- A glove compartment
+
+From left to right under the steering wheel you have: 
+
+- A 2-speed wiper control knob
+- A weather control (heater) temperature slider
+- A 2-speed weather control fan knob
+- The ignition barrel
+- A headlight switch
+- A cigar-lighter (yes, cigar. Check out the owner's manual)
+
+Also, underneath the dashboard on the left there is a parking brake handle and
+hood latch release and on the right there is an arm which raises and lowers the
+fresh air cowl vent. Think of it as "recirculate" in more modern vehicles. If
+you're looking for the turn signal lever it's the tiny stick to the left of the
+steering wheel. The indicator is the little yellow light on the far left of the
+dash. There's only one so it flashes when you're signalling left or right. We
+also added our own air conditioning system, something Hudsons never came with
+from the factory.
+
+# Dual-Range Hydramatic
+
+The first thing that might confuse some folks when they first see the car
+running is the shift lever. Many Hornets came with three-speed manual
+transmissions that were shifted from the column (overdrive was an option).
+However, lots of owners paid extra for the optional "Dual-range Hydramatic", a
+fully automatic transmission from General Motors. Truly, this car has a 4-speed
+automatic that requires no manual shifting during normal use, making it that
+much easier to take a boatload of people to get milkshakes.
+
+Behind the steering wheel is a shift indicator that deviates from the "PRNDL"
+pattern most folks are familiar with. From left to right (shift arm fully at
+the top to arm fully towards the bottom), the 'gears' are:
+
+- N (Neutral)
+- 4-Dr (Drive, all four speeds)
+- 3-Dr (Drive, three speeds only)
+- Lo (Low gear)
+- R (Reverse)
+
+Neutral isn't just a mid-way point between reverse and drive in this car. It's
+a necessity. With automatic Hornets (and Hydramatics in general), neutral is
+used to start the car. There is an electric lockout preventing the car from
+being started in any gear but neutral, so you do have to put the car in neutral
+before you turn the key (if you're on a hill put your foot on the brake or
+engage the parking brake).
+
+Drive is split into 4-Dr and 3-Dr, which basically decides whether the
+transmission utilizes high gear. In the owner's manual, Hudson recommends using
+3-Dr for driving around town (as the low RPMs delivered by high gear means
+unnecessary shifting in and out of 4th gear) and 4-Dr for highway driving. It
+really depends on what speed you're going to be driving at but there isn't
+anything wrong with driving around in 4 all the time. I typically leave it in
+4th at sustained speeds above 45MPH. You can switch between these gears any
+time while moving. 
+
+Low gear basically locks the transmission in 2nd gear so you don't spin the
+wheels. The owner's manual says this is for pulling out of sand or dirt if you
+get stuck.
+
+Reverse works just about how you might expect but with an added catch: if the
+engine is off it acts as park. That's right. When you turn the car off you can
+put it in reverse and the transmission will engage a lock pin to prevent the
+car from rolling. You can't start the car in this gear because of the lockout
+however so you have to shift into neutral to start the car. So for starting,
+put it in neutral, for stopping, put it in reverse. 
+
+# Choke and Gas
+
+For cold starts, our Hornet (and I believe this was common for other Hudsons of
+the time) is equipped with an automatic 2-stage choke. Push the pedal all the
+way to the floor once to set the choke. After the car has started and has
+warmed up, kick the gas quickly to the floor and release to cancel the choke. 
+
+For warm starts the engine doesn't need the choke but likes to be given just a
+little bit of gas while cranking.
+
+# The Keys, Ignition, and Warning Lights
+
+Hudsons like mine come with two keys. The octagonal one is for starting the
+car, it's used in the ignition. The round one is used for the door and trunk
+locks (and I believe in my case the glove box). My understanding is this is
+actually reversed from the majority of Hudsons and is due to a locksmith error
+at one point or another.
+
+The ignition switch sits so that the teeth of the key enter vertically. Turning
+the key left powers accessories like the radio. Turning the key right once
+switches the car to "ON" which will allow the engine to be started and remain
+running.
+
+Here's where some things may vary depending on the year of the car. For '51
+Hornets, there's a separate starter button located all the way on the left
+control pod. For these cars, you put the key in and turn it to "ON", and then
+press and hold the button until the car has started up. For '52 Hornets
+onwards, the ignition switch also activates the starter if you turn the key
+past "ON" (like in most modern vehicles). 
+
+If you turn the key to "ON" you'll see two red warning lights appear on the
+dash next to the indicators marked "AMP" and "OIL". These are [alternator]
+charging status and oil pressure status lights. Our car is equipped with a 12-V
+alternator system so the AMP light really comes on if there is low voltage
+while the oil pressure light comes on when there's low oil pressure. These
+lights will only appear with engine off, key "ON" or if something has gone very
+wrong. 
+
+# Starting and Driving
+
+So now that I've gone over the basics of all the components, here is the normal
+starting procedure. It actually varies depending on whether the engine has been
+warmed up. That's life with carburetors.
+
+## From cold: 
+
+- Put your foot on the brake, and shift the lever into neutral. Just push it
+  vertically, pulling towards you slightly if you need to.
+- Push the gas pedal all the way to the floor once and let your foot back up
+  again to set the choke. 
+- Put the key in the ignition and start the car (the "AMP" and "OIL" lights
+  should switch off. 
+- Wait for the engine to smooth out so you know that it's warm enough to cancel
+  the choke, and kick the gas pedal once to cancel it. (If the RPMs are still
+higher than idle then it's not quite at operating temperature yet)
+- Pull the shifter down into 4-Dr or 3-Dr (or R), and release the parking brake
+  by twisting the handle towards the steering wheel
+- Let off the brake and you're off!
+
+## From warm:
+
+- Put your foot on the brake and shift into neutral.
+- While giving just a little bit of gas, start the car. Both warning lights
+  should disappear. When the engine fires up you can let off the gas and let it
+idle.
+- Pull the shifter into 4-Dr or 3-Dr (or R), and release the parking brake by
+  twisting the handle towards the steering wheel.
+- Done.
+
+# Stopping and parking
+
+- Hold your foot on the brake and twist the parking brake handle towards the
+  door of the car, and pull it towards you
+- When you're ready to shut off the engine, you can shift it into either
+  neutral or reverse and turn the key off. Shift it into reverse if you haven't
+already to lock the transmission.
+
+Note: I usually engage the parking brake AND put the car in reverse, just to be
+safe. If you had to pick one however I would use the transmission in case
+you're on a steep hill and your brakes fail for whatever reason.
+
+And there you have it! Not much is different from most cars around today but
+there are one or two quirks (more about old cars than about Hudsons in
+particular). The only major thing to keep track of while driving is that you
+have no power steering, so get ready to anticipate turns sooner and use more of
+the wheel with every turn.
+
+
+
diff --git a/wheels/2019-07-04-yabs-yet-another-bad-shop.md b/wheels/2019-07-04-yabs-yet-another-bad-shop.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d123d92
--- /dev/null
+++ b/wheels/2019-07-04-yabs-yet-another-bad-shop.md
@@ -0,0 +1,158 @@
+---
+permalink: "/posts/{{categories}}/{{slug}}"
+title: YABS - Yet Another Bad Shop
+categories:
+  - automotive
+tags:
+  - yabs
+  - sucky
+  - auto
+  - repair
+  - shops
+published_date: "2019-07-04 22:12:46 +0000"
+layout: post.liquid
+is_draft: false
+excerpt_separator: "\n\n\n"
+---
+
+Today I received a text message from a local mechanic/auto shop asking me to
+leave them a Google review. It was an automated message from a shop that I know
+well and have used many times in the past. Unfortunately, I have had several
+poor experiences (at the time they seemed horrific) with them in the past year
+and I can honestly say they'll never receive my business again.  Now I could
+have used this as an opportunity to leave them an anonymous nasty-gram but
+instead I'm going to do the opposite. I'm going to write about everything I
+don't like about them without telling you who they are or hiding who I am. Why
+would I do that? Well for one, they were an excellent shop for many years. I
+believe a recent change in management is to blame and I'm not going to ruin
+their chances of making a comeback (because frankly I would like for them to
+rebound). And secondly, I don't believe in hiding. This page and its author are
+public knowledge. Now, in no particular order: a sample of awful work from yet
+another bad shop.
+
+# Mom's Truck -- Balls Out
+
+Mom's truck is a 2007 Chrysler Aspen that she loves very much. Dad does a whole
+lot of work on it himself (the both of us do pretty much everything we can
+in-house so long as we have the right equipment). We've been taking her truck
+into this shop for years because we've found them to be reliable, efficient,
+and economical. As I said before, at some point in their recent history they
+changed hands -- either ownership or management, I can't remember which. It was
+around this time that Dad decided to overhaul Mom's front suspension. He
+replaced the ball joints, tie rod ends, and a few other worn out parts. He then
+did his own best-guess front-end alignment, but left everything loose so that
+YABS could finish up the alignment and tighten everything. Now read that again
+because it's important. Dad did his own alignment in our driveway (as a
+cost-saving measure), got it decently close, but then instructed this shop to
+finish the job and tighten everything up.
+
+Now here's where things fall apart. This shop full of professional mechanics
+took one look at the alignment Dad did and decided it was good enough. Hooray
+for Dad and supernatural mechanical skills, but the shop didn't even touch the
+car. They called Dad back to come pick up the car, telling him it was already
+good to go. They never tightened a thing, even after Dad explicitly told them
+everything was loose and needed to be tightened but they didn't to touch a
+thing. So what happened? Dad picked up the car assuming everything was A-OK and
+Mom drove the car for about a week before the two front tires wore down so
+badly they had to be replaced immediately. Everything fell out of alignment as
+things loosened further and further and the tires wore unevenly until they
+ripped themselves to shreds. The worst part? These weren't tires with 6+ years
+on them. These were brand new tires. So YABS got to install two more front
+tires and then tighten everything. They did not cover the costs, presumably
+because it was Dad who had done the alignment. Strike one.
+
+# Friend's Minivan -- Crude Necessities
+
+A good friend of ours drives a 2005-2006 Chrysler Town and Country. It was
+actually Mom's car before upgrading to the Aspen (the minivan was perfect in
+every way but it couldn't tow). Our friend has been using YABS for just a long
+as we have. Once again, things started getting kinda strange after several
+years of good service. She started getting charged extra for simple repairs she
+had them doing very consistently. They also started tacking on extra items for
+routine jobs. She would go in for an inspection and they would claim she needed
+a new Part X. Now this in and of itself isn't an uncommon or even strange
+request to make. As cars age they need things and sometimes you don't know what
+they need until you visit a professional mechanic. They remember the things you
+forget about.
+
+One day they did all the forgetting, and they forgot a pretty important, nay,
+crucial engine component: motor oil. Our friend took her minivan into YABS for
+a routine oil change. Good diligence on her part. And she's not the type to do
+that change on her own. She's too old to get under a car anyway (no offense!).
+So she took the van to YABS and they did a job they've done thousands of times:
+drain oil, replaced the filter, and gave her back the car. Easy peasy right?
+Now I know I'm not a professional but I'm thinking someone might have wanted to
+double-check that several quarts of synthetic had left the shop shelf and gone
+into the car they just backed out of the bay door. Now this part of the story
+I'm a little fuzzy on so take it with a large, heaping grain of salt, but I can
+say for a fact that they failed to *completely* refill the engine oil before
+returning her car. Supposedly there was enough in there such that the minivan
+survived long enough for them to realize it before she drove off. 
+
+# Monty, My 2013 Ford Focus -- Nut Allergy
+
+I decided to give YABS another try after a long leave of absence. I needed new
+tires all around for my daily driver. I also needed an inspection and an
+alignment. A simple set of tasks for any shop (you see where this is going). I
+initially tried to go to another local shop but they were all out of the tires
+I was looking to get so I caved and went to YABS. About halfway through the job
+they gave me a call and told me they had some bad news. They said that there
+were some issues getting the lug nuts off my wheels and that they had all been
+stripped, warped, or otherwise destroyed in the process. They told me the only
+fix was to get new ones from a supplier in town for about $160. Keep in mind
+the entire job (inspection, tires, etc.) was going to cost $650. Furthermore,
+dad and I had no problem getting those lug nuts off and back on again just a few
+weeks prior when we changed the transmission fluid.
+
+They didn't have an explanation that I could reconcile with. Joe Schmo over
+the phone told me this is typical of Fords and Chryslers these days and that
+they'd like to keep my lug nuts for a class action lawsuit they're participating
+in. Now why on Earth would any sane mechanic, with full knowledge they are
+dealing with a defective set of lug nuts, take a high power impact wrench to
+those wheels without speaking with the owner about it first? Smelled fishy to
+me honestly. But what was I gonna do? Dad went out and grabbed twenty new
+lug nuts for cheaper than they wanted to sell them for. 
+
+Oh the tires were Cooper GTs by the way and they're amazing. They're smooth
+and quiet and came with a very nice warranty. They're also made in the USA,
+which is very important to me. 10/10 would recommend.
+
+# Ole Blue -- Tunnel Vision
+
+This was the real kicker. And this one doesn't really have any trailing
+narrative. I got four new tires on Ole Blue, my 1953 Hudson Hornet. They were
+delivered to our house: four brand new Diamond Back wide white wall radials.
+Super nice tires, with a super nice road hazard warranty (as a side note I
+totally recommend you [check out Diamond Back's website]() if you're looking
+for white wall radials). So we brought the car to YABS with the new tires and
+asked them to mount them on the car. 
+
+When we went to pick up the car everything looked great and I drove off. I made
+it all the way to the Monitor Merrimack Memorial Bridge Tunnel before I heard a
+loud rattling and a bang. I looked in the rear-view mirror and swore I could
+see my precious hubcap rolling off to eternity. When they replaced the hubcaps
+they didn't fully press one of them on. And it's not that difficult. These hub
+caps are very secure when pressed on the rim, we've never had problems with
+them. Oh and we're talking about Hudson hubcaps that came with the car, and
+aren't super easy to find. And I couldn't stop to get out and grab it because I
+was right at the mouth of the tunnel. We went back later to try and see it but
+we couldn't. And it was probably destroyed getting thrown from the car anyways. 
+
+The worst part is, the hubcap took a chunk out of my white wall on its way out
+from under the wheel skirt. So the day I got the tires I had to take a picture
+and redeem my road hazard warranty. Luckily, Diamond Back were true to their
+word and sent me a new one no questions asked. The beat up tire is now my
+spare.
+
+# Not All Bad
+
+Like I said before, YABS used to be a very nice shop with friendly people that
+did good work. And they didn't charge exorbitant prices for their work. Times
+have changed, and I believe management has as well. I've stopped visiting their
+shop completely. I found a new one that I trust and will be taking all of my
+cars to. They've already done a safety inspection on Ole Blue and didn't put up
+a fuss. They're clean and friendly and don't seem to be out to screw me. But as
+with everything else, your mileage may vary.
+
+
+
diff --git a/wheels/2019-08-30-keep-right-except-to-pass.md b/wheels/2019-08-30-keep-right-except-to-pass.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0e6daba
--- /dev/null
+++ b/wheels/2019-08-30-keep-right-except-to-pass.md
@@ -0,0 +1,51 @@
+---
+permalink: "/posts/{{categories}}/{{slug}}"
+title: Keep Right Except to Pass
+categories:
+  - automotive
+tags:
+  - left lane hogs
+  - virginia drivers
+  - passing lane
+  - thru lanes
+excerpt_separator: "\n\n\n"
+published_date: "2019-08-30 19:57:34 +0000"
+layout: post.liquid
+is_draft: false
+---
+Greetings fellow drivers of Hampton Roads. You may have noticed a new sign on
+I264 today that befuddled or confused you. It went something along the lines of 
+
+> LEFT LANE IS
+> FOR PASSING
+> NOT CRUISING
+
+Believe it or not this has been the law throughout Virginia for years ([read
+about it
+here](https://law.lis.virginia.gov/vacode/title46.2/chapter8/section46.2-804/)
+and
+[here](https://law.lis.virginia.gov/vacode/title46.2/chapter8/section46.2-842.1/)).
+The law states you keep right except while passing. In most other states things
+work this way but in Virginia, especially around here, the left lane is treated
+as a moving, cruising lane. If you're in the left lane and you've completed a
+pass please be mindful of the cars behind you and move back over into the
+right-hand lane(s) so that other drivers can do the same.
+
+It's really nice when this is practiced (like I said, I've experienced it in
+other states) because you can easily move over when there are slow vehicles
+ahead and then continue on your merry way. It reduces congestion and prevents
+people from having to pass in the right lane, which is both annoying and
+dangerous. Especially since this is typically the lane cars from entrance and
+exit ramps are merging with.
+
+Don't forget too that it isn't rude or road-rage-y for someone behind you to
+honk their horn or flash their lights if you're moving too slowly in the
+passing lane. This is a perfectly polite request to pass you. You don't set or
+enforce the speed limit. The correct (and legal) thing to do, believe it or
+not, is to move over and slow down to let them pass you. It's all about safe
+and sane driving etiquette. If you aren't actively passing other cars, move on
+over to the right. It goes a long way.
+
+
+
+
diff --git a/wheels/my-first-car-is-a-1953-hudson-hornet.md b/wheels/my-first-car-is-a-1953-hudson-hornet.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d03da5a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/wheels/my-first-car-is-a-1953-hudson-hornet.md
@@ -0,0 +1,9 @@
+---
+title: My First Car Is a 1953 Hudson Hornet
+categories: []
+tags: []
+layout: post.liquid
+is_draft: true
+excerpt_separator: "\n\n\n"
+---
+Start writing already...
diff --git a/wheels/oh-sh-t-or-the-case-for-safer-classic-cars.md b/wheels/oh-sh-t-or-the-case-for-safer-classic-cars.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d48093c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/wheels/oh-sh-t-or-the-case-for-safer-classic-cars.md
@@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
+---
+permalink: "/posts/{{categories}}/{{slug}}"
+excerpt_separator: "\n\n\n"
+title: "Oh, Sh*t, or, the Case for Safer Classic Cars"
+categories: ["automotive"]
+tags: []
+layout: post.liquid
+is_draft: true
+---
+Start writing already...
diff --git a/wheels/old-cars-are-perfectly-viable-machines.md b/wheels/old-cars-are-perfectly-viable-machines.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2f4e104
--- /dev/null
+++ b/wheels/old-cars-are-perfectly-viable-machines.md
@@ -0,0 +1,15 @@
+---
+excerpt_separator: "\n\n\n"
+permalink: "/posts/{{categories}}/{{slug}}"
+title: Old Cars are Perfectly Viable Machines
+categories: []
+tags: []
+layout: post.liquid
+is_draft: true
+---
+
+- tow boats
+- road trips
+- groceries
+- commuting
+
diff --git a/wheels/sketchy-looking-gas-stations-aren-t-that-sketchy.md b/wheels/sketchy-looking-gas-stations-aren-t-that-sketchy.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d81b295
--- /dev/null
+++ b/wheels/sketchy-looking-gas-stations-aren-t-that-sketchy.md
@@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
+---
+excerpt_separator: "\n\n\n"
+permalink: "/posts/{{categories}}/{{slug}}"
+title: "Sketchy-Looking Gas Stations Aren't That Sketchy"
+categories: []
+tags: []
+layout: post.liquid
+is_draft: true
+---
+Start writing already...