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authorAdam T. Carpenter <atc@53hor.net>2020-11-29 08:53:22 -0500
committerAdam T. Carpenter <atc@53hor.net>2020-11-29 08:53:22 -0500
commitaa6ade8c1bc51bc8f379442bb00710438d1385fd (patch)
treed0a99de1f2ceec24c6fe15d61661f96a33a05d3b /wheels
parentdaa21252743400c83f9d46c7fdefc00058553d7f (diff)
download53hor-aa6ade8c1bc51bc8f379442bb00710438d1385fd.tar.xz
53hor-aa6ade8c1bc51bc8f379442bb00710438d1385fd.zip
organized posts, added profile, started makefile
Diffstat (limited to 'wheels')
-rw-r--r--wheels/2019-06-07-how-to-start-and-drive-a-hudson-hornet.html328
-rw-r--r--wheels/2019-07-04-yabs-yet-another-bad-shop.html241
-rw-r--r--wheels/2019-08-30-keep-right-except-to-pass.html114
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diff --git a/wheels/2019-06-07-how-to-start-and-drive-a-hudson-hornet.html b/wheels/2019-06-07-how-to-start-and-drive-a-hudson-hornet.html
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- <article>
- <h1>How to Start and Drive a Hudson Hornet</h1>
-
- <p class="description">
- My understanding is there are a lot of people out there for whom driving
- a car from the mid-20th century is an oddity, a curiosity, or a life
- experience they can't relate to. This is for the non-experts, and
- non-Hudsonites to get an idea of what it's like.
- </p>
-
- <p>
- There are some significant differences between driving the Hornet and
- most other cars you come across today. Some of them are just because
- there are sixty-six years between the Hudson and the 2019 model year.
- Others are Hudson-specific. Many people who I've talked to have said
- that they would feel intimidated driving my car (whether that's because
- of its perceived complexity or obvious value to me). So, for those who
- just want to know how it's done: here is how you start and drive a
- Hudson Hornet.
- </p>
-
- <h2>The Gauge Cluster, Switches, and Controls</h2>
-
- <p>
- Open the door, slide onto the bench seat, and sit behind the [massive]
- steering wheel. For those who haven't experienced it before, it feels
- like you have a whole lot of room at your disposal, almost like there
- <em>should</em> be more matter occupying the space around you. In front
- of you is probably the shiniest dashboard you've ever seen. It's simple,
- and probably slightly familiar.
- </p>
- <p>From left to right above the steering wheel you have:</p>
- <ul>
- <li>
- A speedometer that tops out at 120 mph (with 99K odometer inside)
- </li>
- <li>
- Fuel and coolant temperature gauges (and two dummy lights; more on
- those later)
- </li>
- <li>A clock</li>
- <li>An AM radio</li>
- <li>A glove compartment</li>
- </ul>
-
- <p>From left to right under the steering wheel you have:</p>
- <ul>
- <li>A 2-speed wiper control knob</li>
- <li>A weather control (heater) temperature slider</li>
- <li>A 2-speed weather control fan knob</li>
- <li>The ignition barrel</li>
- <li>A headlight switch</li>
- <li>
- A cigarette-lighter (the owner's manual calls it a cigar lighter!)
- </li>
- </ul>
-
- <p>
- Also, underneath the dashboard on the left there is a parking brake
- handle and hood latch release and on the right there is an arm which
- raises and lowers the fresh air cowl vent. Think of it as "recirculate"
- in more modern vehicles. If you're looking for the turn signal lever
- it's the tiny stick to the left of the steering wheel. The indicator is
- the little yellow light on the far left of the dash. There's only one so
- it flashes when you're signalling left or right. We also added our own
- air conditioning system, something Hudsons never came with from the
- factory.
- </p>
-
- <h2>Dual-Range Hydramatic</h2>
-
- <p>
- The first thing that might confuse some folks when they first see the
- car running is the shift lever. Many Hornets came with three-speed
- manual transmissions that were shifted from the column (overdrive was an
- option). However, lots of owners paid extra for the optional "Dual-range
- Hydramatic", a fully automatic transmission from General Motors. Truly,
- this car has a 4-speed automatic that requires no manual shifting during
- normal use, making it that much easier to take a boatload of people to
- get milkshakes.
- </p>
-
- <p>
- Behind the steering wheel is a shift indicator that deviates from the
- "PRNDL" pattern most folks are familiar with. From left to right (shift
- arm fully at the top to arm fully towards the bottom), the 'gears' are:
- </p>
- <ul>
- <li>N (Neutral)</li>
- <li>4-Dr (Drive, all four speeds)</li>
- <li>3-Dr (Drive, three speeds only)</li>
- <li>Lo (Low gear)</li>
- <li>R (Reverse)</li>
- </ul>
-
- <p>
- Neutral isn't just a mid-way point between reverse and drive in this
- car. It's a necessity. With automatic Hornets (and Hydramatics in
- general), neutral is used to start the car. There is an electric lockout
- preventing the car from being started in any gear but neutral, so you do
- have to put the car in neutral before you turn the key (if you're on a
- hill put your foot on the brake or engage the parking brake).
- </p>
-
- <p>
- Drive is split into 4-Dr and 3-Dr, which basically decides whether the
- transmission utilizes high gear. In the owner's manual, Hudson
- recommends using 3-Dr for driving around town (as the low RPMs delivered
- by high gear means unnecessary shifting in and out of 4th gear) and 4-Dr
- for highway driving. It really depends on what speed you're going to be
- driving at but there isn't anything wrong with driving around in 4 all
- the time. I typically leave it in 4th at sustained speeds above 45MPH.
- You can switch between these gears any time while moving.
- </p>
-
- <p>
- Low gear basically locks the transmission in 2nd gear so you don't spin
- the wheels. The owner's manual says this is for pulling out of sand or
- dirt if you get stuck.
- </p>
-
- <p>
- Reverse works just about how you might expect but with an added catch:
- if the engine is off it acts as park. That's right. When you turn the
- car off you can put it in reverse and the transmission will engage a
- lock pin to prevent the car from rolling. You can't start the car in
- this gear because of the lockout however so you have to shift into
- neutral to start the car. So for starting, put it in neutral, for
- stopping, put it in reverse.
- </p>
-
- <h2>Choke and Gas</h2>
-
- <p>
- For cold starts, our Hornet (and I believe this was common for other
- Hudsons of the time) is equipped with an automatic 2-stage choke. Push
- the pedal all the way to the floor once to set the choke. After the car
- has started and has warmed up, kick the gas quickly to the floor and
- release to cancel the choke.
- </p>
-
- <p>
- For warm starts the engine doesn't need the choke but likes to be given
- just a little bit of gas while cranking.
- </p>
-
- <h2>The Keys, Ignition, and Warning Lights</h2>
-
- <p>
- Hudsons like mine come with two keys. The octagonal one is for starting
- the car, it's used in the ignition. The round one is used for the door
- and trunk locks (and I believe in my case the glove box). My
- understanding is this is actually reversed from the majority of Hudsons
- and is due to a locksmith error at one point or another.
- </p>
-
- <p>
- The ignition switch sits so that the teeth of the key enter vertically.
- Turning the key left powers accessories like the radio. Turning the key
- right once switches the car to "ON" which will allow the engine to be
- started and remain running.
- </p>
-
- <p>
- Here's where some things may vary depending on the year of the car. For
- '51 Hornets, there's a separate starter button located all the way on
- the left control pod. For these cars, you put the key in and turn it to
- "ON", and then press and hold the button until the car has started up.
- For '52 Hornets onwards, the ignition switch also activates the starter
- if you turn the key past "ON" (like in most modern vehicles).
- </p>
-
- <p>
- If you turn the key to "ON" you'll see two red warning lights appear on
- the dash next to the indicators marked "AMP" and "OIL". These are
- [alternator] charging status and oil pressure status lights. Our car is
- equipped with a 12-V alternator system so the AMP light really comes on
- if there is low voltage while the oil pressure light comes on when
- there's low oil pressure. These lights will only appear with engine off,
- key "ON" or if something has gone very wrong.
- </p>
-
- <h2>Starting and Driving</h2>
-
- <p>
- So now that I've gone over the basics of all the components, here is the
- normal starting procedure. It actually varies depending on whether the
- engine has been warmed up. That's life with carburetors.
- </p>
-
- <h3>From cold:</h3>
-
- <ul>
- <li>
- Put your foot on the brake, and shift the lever into neutral. Just
- push it vertically, pulling towards you slightly if you need to.
- </li>
- <li>
- Push the gas pedal all the way to the floor once and let your foot
- back up again to set the choke.
- </li>
- <li>
- Put the key in the ignition and start the car (the "AMP" and "OIL"
- lights should switch off.
- </li>
- <li>
- Wait for the engine to smooth out so you know that it's warm enough to
- cancel the choke, and kick the gas pedal once to cancel it. (If the
- RPMs are still higher than idle then it's not quite at operating
- temperature yet)
- </li>
- <li>
- Pull the shifter down into 4-Dr or 3-Dr (or R), and release the
- parking brake by twisting the handle towards the steering wheel
- </li>
- <li>Let off the brake and you're off!</li>
- </ul>
-
- <h3>From warm:</h3>
-
- <ul>
- <li>Put your foot on the brake and shift into neutral.</li>
- <li>
- While giving just a little bit of gas, start the car. Both warning
- lights should disappear. When the engine fires up you can let off the
- gas and let it idle.
- </li>
- <li>
- Pull the shifter into 4-Dr or 3-Dr (or R), and release the parking
- brake by twisting the handle towards the steering wheel.
- </li>
- <li>Done.</li>
- </ul>
-
- <h2>Stopping and Parking</h2>
-
- <ul>
- <li>
- Hold your foot on the brake and twist the parking brake handle towards
- the door of the car, and pull it towards you
- </li>
- <li>
- When you're ready to shut off the engine, you can shift it into either
- neutral or reverse and turn the key off. Shift it into reverse if you
- haven't already to lock the transmission.
- </li>
- </ul>
-
- <p>
- Note: I usually engage the parking brake AND put the car in reverse,
- just to be safe. If you had to pick one however I would use the
- transmission in case you're on a steep hill and your brakes fail for
- whatever reason.
- </p>
-
- <p>
- And there you have it! Not much is different from most cars around today
- but there are one or two quirks (more about old cars than about Hudsons
- in particular). The only major thing to keep track of while driving is
- that you have no power steering, so get ready to anticipate turns sooner
- and use more of the wheel with every turn.
- </p>
- </article>
- </body>
-</html>
diff --git a/wheels/2019-07-04-yabs-yet-another-bad-shop.html b/wheels/2019-07-04-yabs-yet-another-bad-shop.html
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-<!DOCTYPE html>
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- <title>53hornet ➙ YABS: Yet Another Bad Shop</title>
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-
- <article>
- <h1>YABS: Yet Another Bad Shop</h1>
- <p>
- Today I received a text message from a local mechanic/auto shop asking
- me to leave them a Google review. It was an automated message from a
- shop that I know well and have used many times in the past.
- Unfortunately, I have had several poor experiences (at the time they
- seemed horrific) with them in the past year and I can honestly say
- they'll never receive my business again. Now I could have used this as
- an opportunity to leave them an anonymous nasty-gram but instead I'm
- going to do the opposite. I'm going to write about everything I don't
- like about them without telling you who they are or hiding who I am. Why
- would I do that? Well for one, they were an excellent shop for many
- years. I believe a recent change in management is to blame and I'm not
- going to ruin their chances of making a comeback (because frankly I
- would like for them to rebound). And secondly, I don't believe in
- hiding. This page and its author are public knowledge. Now, in no
- particular order: a sample of awful work from yet another bad shop.
- </p>
-
- <h2>Mom's Truck -- Balls Out</h2>
-
- <p>
- Mom's truck is a 2007 Chrysler Aspen that she loves very much. Dad does
- a whole lot of work on it himself (the both of us do pretty much
- everything we can in-house so long as we have the right equipment).
- We've been taking her truck into this shop for years because we've found
- them to be reliable, efficient, and economical. As I said before, at
- some point in their recent history they changed hands -- either
- ownership or management, I can't remember which. It was around this time
- that Dad decided to overhaul Mom's front suspension. He replaced the
- ball joints, tie rod ends, and a few other worn out parts. He then did
- his own best-guess front-end alignment, but left everything loose so
- that YABS could finish up the alignment and tighten everything. Now read
- that again because it's important. Dad did his own alignment in our
- driveway (as a cost-saving measure), got it decently close, but then
- instructed this shop to finish the job and tighten everything up.
- </p>
-
- <p>
- Now here's where things fall apart. This shop full of professional
- mechanics took one look at the alignment Dad did and decided it was good
- enough. Hooray for Dad and supernatural mechanical skills, but the shop
- didn't even touch the car. They called Dad back to come pick up the car,
- telling him it was already good to go. They never tightened a thing,
- even after Dad explicitly told them everything was loose and needed to
- be tightened but they didn't to touch a thing. So what happened? Dad
- picked up the car assuming everything was A-OK and Mom drove the car for
- about a week before the two front tires wore down so badly they had to
- be replaced immediately. Everything fell out of alignment as things
- loosened further and further and the tires wore unevenly until they
- ripped themselves to shreds. The worst part? These weren't tires with 6+
- years on them. These were brand new tires. So YABS got to install two
- more front tires and then tighten everything. They did not cover the
- costs, presumably because it was Dad who had done the alignment. Strike
- one.
- </p>
-
- <h2>Friend's Minivan -- Crude Necessities</h2>
-
- <p>
- A good friend of ours drives a 2005-2006 Chrysler Town and Country. It
- was actually Mom's car before upgrading to the Aspen (the minivan was
- perfect in every way but it couldn't tow). Our friend has been using
- YABS for just a long as we have. Once again, things started getting
- kinda strange after several years of good service. She started getting
- charged extra for simple repairs she had them doing very consistently.
- They also started tacking on extra items for routine jobs. She would go
- in for an inspection and they would claim she needed a new Part X. Now
- this in and of itself isn't an uncommon or even strange request to make.
- As cars age they need things and sometimes you don't know what they need
- until you visit a professional mechanic. They remember the things you
- forget about.
- </p>
-
- <p>
- One day they did all the forgetting, and they forgot a pretty important,
- nay, crucial engine component: motor oil. Our friend took her minivan
- into YABS for a routine oil change. Good diligence on her part. And
- she's not the type to do that change on her own. She's too old to get
- under a car anyway (no offense!). So she took the van to YABS and they
- did a job they've done thousands of times: drain oil, replaced the
- filter, and gave her back the car. Easy peasy right? Now I know I'm not
- a professional but I'm thinking someone might have wanted to
- double-check that several quarts of synthetic had left the shop shelf
- and gone into the car they just backed out of the bay door. Now this
- part of the story I'm a little fuzzy on so take it with a large, heaping
- grain of salt, but I can say for a fact that they failed to
- <em>completely</em> refill the engine oil before returning her car.
- Supposedly there was enough in there such that the minivan survived long
- enough for them to realize it before she drove off.
- </p>
-
- <h2>Monty, My 2013 Ford Focus -- Nut Allergy</h2>
-
- <p>
- I decided to give YABS another try after a long leave of absence. I
- needed new tires all around for my daily driver. I also needed an
- inspection and an alignment. A simple set of tasks for any shop (you see
- where this is going). I initially tried to go to another local shop but
- they were all out of the tires I was looking to get so I caved and went
- to YABS. About halfway through the job they gave me a call and told me
- they had some bad news. They said that there were some issues getting
- the lug nuts off my wheels and that they had all been stripped, warped,
- or otherwise destroyed in the process. They told me the only fix was to
- get new ones from a supplier in town for about $160. Keep in mind the
- entire job (inspection, tires, etc.) was going to cost $650.
- Furthermore, dad and I had no problem getting those lug nuts off and
- back on again just a few weeks prior when we changed the transmission
- fluid.
- </p>
-
- <p>
- They didn't have an explanation that I could reconcile with. Joe Schmo
- over the phone told me this is typical of Fords and Chryslers these days
- and that they'd like to keep my lug nuts for a class action lawsuit
- they're participating in. Now why on Earth would any sane mechanic, with
- full knowledge they are dealing with a defective set of lug nuts, take a
- high power impact wrench to those wheels without speaking with the owner
- about it first? Smelled fishy to me honestly. But what was I gonna do?
- Dad went out and grabbed twenty new lug nuts for cheaper than they
- wanted to sell them for.
- </p>
-
- <p>
- Oh the tires were Cooper GTs by the way and they're amazing. They're
- smooth and quiet and came with a very nice warranty. They're also made
- in the USA, which is very important to me. 10/10 would recommend.
- </p>
-
- <h2>Ol' Blue -- Tunnel Vision</h2>
-
- <p>
- This was the real kicker. And this one doesn't really have any trailing
- narrative. I got four new tires on Ol' Blue, my 1953 Hudson Hornet. They
- were delivered to our house: four brand new Diamond Back wide white wall
- radials. Super nice tires, with a super nice road hazard warranty (as a
- side note I totally recommend you
- <a href="https://dbtires.com/">check out Diamond Back's website</a> if
- you're looking for white wall radials). So we brought the car to YABS
- with the new tires and asked them to mount them on the car.
- </p>
-
- <p>
- When we went to pick up the car everything looked great and I drove off.
- I made it all the way to the Monitor Merrimack Memorial Bridge Tunnel
- before I heard a loud rattling and a bang. I looked in the rear-view
- mirror and swore I could see my precious hubcap rolling off to eternity.
- When they replaced the hubcaps they didn't fully press one of them on.
- And it's not that difficult. These hub caps are very secure when pressed
- on the rim, we've never had problems with them. Oh and we're talking
- about Hudson hubcaps that came with the car, and aren't super easy to
- find. And I couldn't stop to get out and grab it because I was right at
- the mouth of the tunnel. We went back later to try and see it but we
- couldn't. And it was probably destroyed getting thrown from the car
- anyways.
- </p>
-
- <p>
- The worst part is, the hubcap took a chunk out of my white wall on its
- way out from under the wheel skirt. So the day I got the tires I had to
- take a picture and redeem my road hazard warranty. Luckily, Diamond Back
- were true to their word and sent me a new one no questions asked. The
- beat up tire is now my spare.
- </p>
-
- <h2>Not All Bad</h2>
-
- <p>
- Like I said before, YABS used to be a very nice shop with friendly
- people that did good work. And they didn't charge exorbitant prices for
- their work. Times have changed, and I believe management has as well.
- I've stopped visiting their shop completely. I found a new one that I
- trust and will be taking all of my cars to. They've already done a
- safety inspection on Ol' Blue and didn't put up a fuss. They're clean
- and friendly and don't seem to be out to screw me. But as with
- everything else, your mileage may vary.
- </p>
- </article>
- </body>
-</html>
diff --git a/wheels/2019-08-30-keep-right-except-to-pass.html b/wheels/2019-08-30-keep-right-except-to-pass.html
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-
- <article>
- <h1>Left Lane is for Passing, Not Cruising</h1>
-
- <p>
- Greetings fellow drivers of Hampton Roads. You may have noticed a new
- sign on I264 today that befuddled or confused you. It went something
- along the lines of
- </p>
-
- <blockquote>LEFT LANE IS FOR PASSING NOT CRUISING</blockquote>
-
- <p>
- Believe it or not this has been the law throughout Virginia for years
- (<a
- href="https://law.lis.virginia.gov/vacode/title46.2/chapter8/section46.2-804/"
- >read about it here</a
- >
- and
- <a
- href="https://law.lis.virginia.gov/vacode/title46.2/chapter8/section46.2-842.1/"
- >here</a
- >). The law states you keep right except while passing. In most other
- states things work this way but in Virginia, especially around here, the
- left lane is treated as a moving, cruising lane. If you're in the left
- lane and you've completed a pass please be mindful of the cars behind
- you and move back over into the right-hand lane(s) so that other drivers
- can do the same.
- </p>
-
- <p>
- It's really nice when this is practiced (like I said, I've experienced
- it in other states) because you can easily move over when there are slow
- vehicles ahead and then continue on your merry way. It reduces
- congestion and prevents people from having to pass in the right lane,
- which is both annoying and dangerous. Especially since this is typically
- the lane cars from entrance and exit ramps are merging with.
- </p>
-
- <p>
- Don't forget too that it isn't rude or road-rage-y for someone behind
- you to honk their horn or flash their lights if you're moving too slowly
- in the passing lane. This is a perfectly polite request to pass you. You
- don't set or enforce the speed limit. The correct (and legal) thing to
- do, believe it or not, is to move over and slow down to let them pass
- you. It's all about safe and sane driving etiquette. If you aren't
- actively passing other cars, move on over to the right. It goes a long
- way.
- </p>
- </article>
- </body>
-</html>